A
Legacy of 1287?
Introduction...
The great flood of 1953 didn't just create a new chapter
in the history of Whitstable. It actually reproduced an old one from 700
years ago... by recreating some of the coastline of King Edward I.
To demonstrate, this we need to cross refer to Brian
Smith's superb article, "The History of Whitstable Shoreline from
1287". If you haven't read Brian's work already, you can
click here to
view.
The 1287 Picture
Let's start by taking a look at one of Brian's maps and
recapping on some of his findings.
The map gives us a picture of how the shoreline may have
looked in 1287 after an inundation by the sea had created a
"new" waterfront.....

Map by Brian Smith
The broken blue line plots the relatively smooth
waterfront of today. The red line shows the approximate coastline at the
end of 13th century. Now let's pick out some key features from 1287......
Seasalter Levels In
the extreme west, Seasalter Marshes were inundated. Thus from
Blue Anchor Corner, the shoreline dipped sharply south to follow
the line of Favesham Road to Seasalter Cross.
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The Inner Shoreline Moving
east from Blue Anchor corner, that "red" shoreline
pretty much mapped the high ground of Whitstable's clay slopes.
Thus, it progressed along the line of Preston Parade, Joy Lane
and West Cliff. In the east, it trimmed Old Bridge Road before
heading north along the line of Clare Road and Northwood Road to
Tankerton Slopes.
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The Outer Shoreline -
The Islands North of this inner shoreline,
there was an area of land which may have formed two islands -
Upper and Lower Island. These now support the "modern
day" locations of Island Wall, Horsebridge
and Sea Wall. In fact, Island Wall probably grabbed its
name from these geographical features. The islands are thought to
have been separated from each other - possibly at "Marine Gap".
Even today, older natives still refer to the eastern section of
Island Wall as "Upper Island" and the western section
as "Lower Island.
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The Salts and The
Gorrell Delta Between the Islands and the Inner
Shoreline, there were two "floodable" areas - the
Salts and the Gorrell Delta. Brian suggests that these probably varied from complete sea coverage to swampy
marshland - depending on seasons, weather and tide. The Salts are now occupied by Seasalter
golf course, Nelson Road, Cornwallis Circle and Waterloo Road. The
Gorrell delta was the flood plain of the seemingly insignificant
Gorrell stream which flowed across the marshy area to Long Beach. Nowadays, it is occupied by such roads as
Westgate Terrace, Cromwell
Road, Reservoir Road, Westmeads Road, Station Road, Diamond Road and Railway
Avenue. The Gorrell stream was eventually truncated and
redirected into a backwater at Westgate Terrace. During the
twentieth century, the
entire lower course of the stream was hidden away - beneath
the Stream Walk pathway that runs from Belmont Road to the
junction of Cromwell Road and Woodlawn Street. Finally, the
backwater was also covered - by the concrete of the Gorrell tank
car park. However, the stream still exists - out of sight and
waiting to cause mischief.
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The Isthmus Between
The Salts and the Gorrell Delta, a narrow piece of raised
ground reached out towards the islands - pointing towards
the modern day locations of Horsebridge and Sea Wall. There is some debate as to whether
this "isthmus" actually connected with the islands via a natural causeway.
Even if it didn't, it seems likely that our ancestors eventually built a shingle
link or even a wooden bridge in order to access the landing site
that later developed at the Horsebridge. Either way, the natural or
man-made link between the "mainland" and
"islands" probably gave rise to the name "Horsebridge". (Note:
The shallow waters of the Salts and Gorrell delta would not have
been suitable for larger boats. Thus, any substantial landing
site needed to be built on the outer shoreline - ie on one of
the islands. That in turn necessitated a link to the mainland -
one that was capable of supporting horses and carts. Remarkably,
use of the Horsebridge beach as a landing site continued until
the mid-twentieth century).
In 1287, the isthmus was unpopulated. However, by the
16th century, it had been used to create a settlement
known as Whitstapl Street. This fishing community eventually expanded into the town
of modern day Whitstable. Current day Oxford Street and High Street actually follow the line of
the Isthmus to the old landing site of the Horsebridge.
Although
now accepted as "just another town centre road", the
raised Middle Wall was actually part of an inner sea wall - built
in 1583 and originally known as Valley Wall. This protected the isthmus and
its inhabitants from floodwater encroaching from The Salts. We
suspect that the road was actually called "Inner Wall"
at one time.
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Sea walls and drainage schemes eventually dried out the
swampy regions and pushed the shoreline back to form the smooth
coastline that we know today. The islands were lost forever..... Well
almost! The
Temporary Shoreline of 1953 Now, let's look at the
temporary shoreline created by the flood of 1953. The map below has been
created from the flood memories of our readers. It may not be wholly
accurate in every detail but it does give a reasonable "broad
brush" picture.... 
Here
are the links back to 1287....
The Islands
The flood virtually cut off the Island Wall area and
returned it to its original "island" status. However, the
long lost gap between Upper and Lower Islands was NOT
re-established. Thus, we had one "island" rather than two!
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The Salts West
of Middle Wall, sea water submerged Seasalter Golf Course,
Nelson Road, Waterloo Road and Cornwallis Circle. This
re-established the floodable swamplands of the
"Salts" and the original "inner" shoreline
along the clay bank of West Cliff. Of course, back in 1287, water could ebb
and flow freely across this area and the Salts therefore varied
from full water coverage to marshland. This was not the case in
1953. The man-made sea defences actually prevented the sea from
draining back to its proper place! Thus, the area filled like a
bath tub - to around 5 or 6 feet.
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| The Gorrell Delta
East of the High Street, the flood re-established some
of the
old swamplands of the Gorrell delta.
In 1287, the swamp extended south to the general line of Old Bridge
Road. In 1953, the flooding also reached Old Bridge Road.... but
only along the actual banks of the mischievous stream itself.
Much of the flooding ended at or near Diamond Road.
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The Isthmus Perhaps
the most fascinating feature of our map is that it provides some
evidence of the original isthmus wedged between the Salts and
the Gorrell delta. Thus, Oxford Street (and parts of both Middle
Wall and High Street) remained "dry" during the 1953 flood and provided an
artery for aid and rescue. A number of our readers have
also drawn attention to a curious "dry" island in the
vicinity of St Peters Road back in '53. This could have been a remnant of
the isthmus of 1287. However, there may be other, more recent
explanations. Brian tells me that some parts of central
Whitstable were "built up" from time to time. For
example, it is known that soil was removed from the top of
Borstal Hill in order to reduce the severity of the slope and
then deposited in parts of central Whitstable. (This gave rise
to a local joke that people in the town centre actually lived on
top of Borstal Hill). Another possibility is that, over
the centuries, parts of the old swamplands rose
quite naturally as a result of the process of draining and
drying. |
| Seasalter Levels
(Marshes)
Although not shown on our flood map, the sea reclaimed
Seasalter Levels in 1953 and recreated a temporary shoreline
similar to that of 1287. The deluge was sufficiently severe to
cut the main rail link between Whitstable and Faversham/London.
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It seems that 700 years of sea wall construction and land drainage
simply weren't sufficient to cope with Mother Nature on the night of the
31st January 1953! As a result, it was the night that time ran
backwards.... to King Edward I and 1287 In our comparison, we have
only included a brief synopsis of Brian Smith's article The
History of Whitstable Shoreline from 1287. To view the full
item, click
here.
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